Friday, August 31, 2007

Day 20, 21 and 22

27th Agust
Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo, 23km in 4 and three quarter hours. .... but we suspect longer as we think we took a longer route !
 
Very warm again - back to shorts and t-shirts!! Very pleasant all day long, lots of small villages, some vineyards. Even the last 7km that the guidebooks describe as along an exhaust fumed road´had been diverted and now came through little villages and vineyards.

We had a short day today as we wanted to get the clothes dried from yesterday - was easily done !

KJ went to the health clinic in the town and we now think he didn´t have bed bugs after all - the doctor said by the look of the bites it was just an insect that got into his clothing on the walk. we suspected something like that as the itching didn´t start until part the way through the day. Who knows - they are all going anyway!

The town here is described as one of the most beautiful on the Camino and it really is - we´ve spent the best part of the day wandering around it.




We´ve met a number of older walkers in the last few days that have filled us with admiration. They get up earlier than we do, walk as far and then do it all over again the next day. Somedays they are so exhausted they just sleep through - it has to be tough for the.

28th August
Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro 30km in 5 and 3 quarter hours - and this massive hill!!!!!!!!

Oh my goodness - what a hike today ......



When we got up this morning we want to take a detour over some hills - much nicer than the road route. But we couldn´t find the trail so end end up on the road. In the end the road route had been changed so much that it was really nice. By the end of the day I was glad we skipped the first set of hills !

The first part of the day was great - just like yesterday - great weather and nice countryside, lots of little villages. THEN, the climb started and it went on for ever! IN fact with 2km to the top we had to stop cos I thought I was having an asthma attack - and I don´t have asthma !!! Great views from the top once there - one of the few days of the year that it wasn´t cover in mist and cloud the locals tell us. KJ just loved the climb of course.



We met two ladies that we´d passed a few days ago - they had both run into problems so caught the bus for a few days to keep on track.....

The local village here if famed for having some bread and wine that actually turned into body and blood after a priest told a local man he was silly to come to mass in bad weather.

The stone count down markers have started today´- 153km to go ....... but they are wrong by 3km so we really have 154 km as our town is at 151km according to the markers.


The Albergue we are staying in is very new - doesn´t even have shower curtains ! Tomorrow we are putting 2 shorts days together and making up another day - hopefully to arrive in Santiago by Sunday now.

Have seen it all on this walk now - there we are on this 30 day Pilgrimage and there are some ladies getting up at 6am to do their make up, pluck eye brows .... and today I even saw a lady using a hairdryer! She was just about to walk for 5 hours and sweat like mad !

29th August
O Cebreiro to Aguiada, 35.5km in 7 hours.

Today started with 16km of incredible views of ...... mist ! Unbelievable that we walked for over 3 hours without being able to see past 5m in front ! We decided to take the first 3km on the road as at least we´d be able to lose some of the height from the ridge - thinking that we´d drop below the clouds / mist quickly - but no - occasional glimpse of something but on the whole a very eerie experience. Cool though!

KJ started off the day in his Poncho to keep warm - I wore mine cos I now think that it´s really cool!

Suddenly, within minutes the mist cleared and we walked into a very green valley, full of villages and animals and stuff. Was probably like that for a while - we had just not been able to see it !

This was also the smelliest days yet - loads of farmyards with associated smells and muck !
We walked down hill for the most part of today - resulting in sore legs and feet. We decided to stop 3km short of our original end point because we came across a lovely Albergue - new - that had gardens and clean rooms and rooms to ourselves etc. What a treat - our own bathroom !!!!! There are just 4 of us staying here.

The evening meal was something special - gets in there with the OAP one in the early days ! Courgette soup to start with, then Spanish Omelet and salad.

We are now in the Galicia region - famous for food and cider - not as strong tasting as ours but still nice. We had to have a glass or 2 this afternoon to check it out ............


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